By G.A. Benton

A background rock 'n' roll soundtrack vies fiercely for ear space with the clatter of heavily used platters and the energetic chatter of highly satisfied diners whooping it up at Marcella's Ristorante, Cameron Mitchell's latest and best mini-chain concept. The resultant wild party sound is in cahoots with Marcella's ever-packed, crammed together tables and seems to suit its ebullient, bold-flavored and happily affordable food.

Inside Marcella's, there's lots of dark wood, white tile, muted light and Tuscan-esque ochre tones. In this fast-paced setting, a white T-shirt and jeans-clad staff serves up a wealth of excellent Italianate specialties primarily designed for sharing a la small-plate style. And the deliciousness abounds among many new-school hot and cold appetizers, pastas, pizzas and even a few single-diner-targeted main dish items.

Here's a few certified winners: the super-terrific Insalata di Scarola (escarole salad); highly popular, extra-large, soft and bulbous veal meatballs; pillowy soft gnocchi in browned butter with fried sage leaves and walnuts; addictive caponata - sweet roasted eggplant with golden raisins, olives, pine nuts and capers; the marvelously meaty, thin-crusted Sicilian pizza; a delicate pan-sauteed skate-wing entree; and one of the very best tiramisus in Columbus.

Note, there are currently two, somewhat different Marcella's in town: a bustling Short Norther with near floor-to-ceiling windows opening on to a busy High Street sidewalk, and a Polaris site, which is open for lunch, easier to get in to, and has an ambient noise level several decibels lower.